Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and visitors equally praising its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a prestigious list of global cities and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it becomes part of a international community of cities urban centers across over 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "is a testament to its profound culinary traditions and vibrant gastronomic culture," as stated by a official from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this historic city arrives as hardly a shock to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, chaotic, and eclectic city – the capital of India's most populous state – is at last in the spotlight for what has perennially defined its heart: an immense passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, the method of preparation' is a ongoing dialogue from waking up until night in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, refined, and raised to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of gastronomic creativity, merging Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases seasonal produce but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on every corner, there are little shops and carts – little-known treasures that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, served in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and complicated. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but say that their younger generation are reluctant to take up the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will inspire more people worldwide to explore these stories and visit the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.
